Water Wave Run Up On A Beach Ii

While investigating the Tsunami wave project, a numerical method was devised to solve the initial boundary value problem for the equations of the non-linear shallow water theory. The case of one horizontal dimension was considered in a domain bounded by a shore at one end, with the motion of the shoreline taken into account. In addition, this method enabled the incident wave to be introduced at the seaward end of the domain. The water was assumed to be at rest in the domain until the incident wave arrived, and the bottom was assumed to slope uniformly. (Author).

Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools. Information about the various wave models which have been developed is often widely scattered in the literature, and consequently this is one of the first books devoted to wave models and their applications. At the core of the book is an introduction to various types of wave models. For each model, the theoretical assumptions, the application range, and the advantages and limitations are elaborated. The combined use of different wave models from large-scale to local-scale is highlighted with a detailed discussion of the application and matching of boundary conditions. At the same time the book provides a grounding in hydrodynamics, wave theory, and numerical methods which underlie wave modelling. It presents the theoretical background and also shows how to use these models for achieving different engineering tasks, illustrated and reinforced with case study examples.

A textbook that offers a unified treatment of the applications of hydrodynamics to marine problems. The applications of hydrodynamics to naval architecture and marine engineering expanded dramatically in the 1960s and 1970s. This classic textbook, originally published in 1977, filled the need for a single volume on the applications of hydrodynamics to marine problems. The book is solidly based on fundamentals, but it also guides the student to an understanding of engineering applications through its consideration of realistic configurations. The book takes a balanced approach between theory and empirics, providing the necessary theoretical background for an intelligent evaluation and application of empirical procedures. It also serves as an introduction to more specialized research methods. It unifies the seemingly diverse problems of marine hydrodynamics by examining them not as separate problems but as related applications of the general field of hydrodynamics. The book evolved from a first-year graduate course in MIT's Department of Ocean Engineering. A knowledge of advanced calculus is assumed. Students will find a previous introductory course in fluid dynamics helpful, but the book presents the necessary fundamentals in a self-contained manner. The 40th anniversary of this pioneering book offers a foreword by John Grue. Contents Model Testing • The Motion of a Viscous Fluid • The Motion of an Ideal Fluid • Lifting Surfaces • Waves and Wave Effects • Hydrodynamics of Slender Bodies

This review volume is divided into two parts. The first part includes five review papers on various numerical models. Pedersen provides a brief but thorough review of the theoretical background for depth-integrated wave equations, which are employed to simulate tsunami runup. LeVeque and George describe high-resolution finite volume methods for solving the nonlinear shallow water equations. The focus of their discussion is on the applications of these methods to tsunami runup.In recent years, several advanced 3D numerical models have been introduced to the field of coastal engineering to calculate breaking waves and wave-structure interactions. These models are still under development and are at different stages of maturity. Rogers and Dalrymple discuss the Smooth Particles Hydrodynamics (SPH) method, which is a meshless method. Wu and Liu present their Large Eddy Simulation (LES) model for simulating the landslide-generated waves. Finally, Frandsen introduces the lattice Boltzmann method with the consideration of a free surface.The second part of the review volume contains the descriptions of the benchmark problems with eleven extended abstracts submitted by the workshop participants. All these papers are compared with their numerical results with benchmark solutions.