Sustainable Value Chains In The Global Garment Industry

The widespread prevalence of economically, socially, and environmentally unsustainable practices in global value chains is a pressing international challenge. The way to improve systems and practices in the complex networks that characterize contemporary production processes is not clear cut. Finding solutions requires innovation. This Element examines the structures of garment value chains and explores how innovation related to sustainability is taking place in these chains. Furthermore, it identifies barriers and opportunities for innovations to break through and stimulate industry-wide change.

This timely book focuses on the upgrading of firms within the global garment industry, examining how garment manufacturers and retailers in different countries internationalize, develop their capabilities and enhance their sustainability. It highlights the important role the global garments industry plays in the socio-economic development and environmental outcomes of emerging economies.

This book illustrates key sustainability issues in global textile and fashion value chains, by examining individual types of fibers either at a single step in or along the entire value chain. It approaches sustainability-related issues in the textile and fashion value chain from an interdisciplinary and holistic viewpoint, with each contribution linking questions on the textile and fashion value chain to various drivers, indicators and concepts of sustainability. Each chapter represents a single step in the textile and fashion value chain, exploring and considering a wide range of interwoven and interdependent technological, environmental, social, political and economic aspects. Various fibers, textile engineering and chemical treatment steps, as well as innovative business concepts and regulatory frameworks across the entire textile and fashion value chain are identified, analyzed, discussed and critically evaluated. The book provides a systematic overview of the potential and challenges of sustainable textile and fashion value chains, making it of interest to practitioners and scientists in sustainability science, environmental economics, and business, management and innovation. Further, it offers a valuable source of information for industrial and mechanical engineering researchers, and for students in the areas of textile engineering, fashion, or the apparel and clothing industry.

There is no doubt that the textile industry – the production of clothing, fabrics, thread, fibre and related products – plays a significant part in the global economy. It also frequently operates with disregard to its environmental and social impacts. The textile industry uses large quantities of water and outputs large quantities of waste. As for social aspects, many unskilled jobs have disappeared in regions that rely heavily on these industries. Another serious and still unresolved problem is the flexibility textile industry companies claim to need. Faced with fierce international competition, they are increasingly unable to offer job security. This is without even considering the informal-sector work proliferating both in developing and developed countries. Child labour persists within this sector despite growing pressure to halt it.Fashion demands continuous consumption. In seeking to own the latest trends consumers quickly come to regard their existing garments as inferior, if not useless. "Old" items become unwanted as quickly as new ones come into demand. This tendency towards disposability results in the increased use of resources and thus the accelerated accumulation of waste. It is obvious to many that current fashion industry practices are in direct competition with sustainability objectives; yet this is frequently overlooked as a pressing concern.It is, however, becoming apparent that there are social and ecological consequences to the current operation of the fashion industry: sustainability in the sector has been gaining attention in recent years from those who believe that it should be held accountable for the pressure it places on the individual, as well as its contribution to increases in consumption and waste disposal.This book takes a wide-screen approach to the topic, covering, among other issues: sustainability and business management in textile and fashion companies; value chain management; use of materials; sustainable production processes; fashion, needs and consumption; disposal; and innovation and design.The book will be essential reading for researchers and practitioners in the global fashion business.

This PhD thesis approaches the phenomenon of supply chain governance for social sustainability in the ready-made garment industry in Bangladesh. This research is based on a study of eight large multinational corporations (e.g. clothing brands and retailers) and their ready-made garment suppliers. The purpose of this research is to understand how supply chain governance mechanisms and governance structures improve social sustainability performance when stakeholders are engaged. The study identifies four main governance systems, namely, market-based, hierarchical controlbased, collaborative multi-stakeholder-based and relational cross-sectoral-based. These governance systems are employed in the supply chain by the multinational corporations in combination with different stakeholders, such as suppliers, multi-stakeholder-initiatives, and non-government organisations. The study focuses on the challenges faced by the multinational corporations to ensure social sustainability, whilst at the same time, incorporating suppliers’ viewpoints on the consequences of different governance systems for social sustainability. This research shows the choice of governance structures from market-based, hierarchy-based, collaboration-based and relational-based depend on the cost of managing relationships with the stakeholders and potential risks of governance in a given situation. An effective governance structure for a multinational corporation in a particular context is determined by how well the structure supports governance mechanisms to reduce associated transaction risks that results from potential opportunistic behaviour of the suppliers. In this research, it is argued that governance structure provides the platform for practicing a set of governance mechanisms. The study claims that social sustainability governance incorporates three mechanisms with separate outcomes: one consists of buyer-driven control-based mechanisms which include codes of conduct, supplier assessment and monitoring, and supplier training for regular social compliance; the second consists of multi-stakeholder-based governance mechanisms for structural compliance when unexpected problems occur, for example, building collapse, electrical and fire safety risks emerge; and the third comprises cross-sectoral governance mechanisms when the multinational corporations involve with non-government organisations for social development of the garment workers and community by facilitating drinking water, health-hygiene, education, and so on. This thesis contributes to the Sustainable Supply Chain Management literature by expanding knowledge of supply chain governance through bringing an understanding of governance mechanisms, governance structures and stakeholder engagements for social sustainability. As the demand for supply chain governance for social sustainability are growing, this thesis can help responsible corporate sourcing managers to develop a deeper understanding of how supply chain governance can affect social sustainability. Denna doktorsavhandling tar sig an fenomenet leverantörsstyrning för social hållbarhet i klädindustrin i Bangladesh. Forskningen baseras på en studie av åtta stora multinationella företag, tillika återförsäljare av kläder och välkända klädmärken. Syftet med studien är att förstå hur leverantörsstyrningsmekanismer och styrstrukturer kan förbättra socialt hållbarhetsarbete när flera aktörer är engagerade och samverkar. Resultatet av studien indikerar att multinationella företag de facto engagerar sig med andra aktörer för att förbättra sin förmåga att bedriva socialt hållbarhetsarbete. Studien identifierar fyra olika typer av leverantörsstyrsystem: ett marknadsbaserat, ett hierarkiskt kontrollbaserat, ett kollaborativt multi-intressentbaserat samt ett relationellt sektorsövergripande system. Dessa styrningssystem tillämpas i leverantörskedjan av de multinationella företagen i samarbete med andra aktörer såsom leverantörer, ‘multi-intressentinitiativ’ och icke-statliga organisationer. Studien fokuserar dels på de utmaningar som föreligger för de multinationella företagen när det gäller att säkerställa social hållbarhet, dels på hur leverantörer uppfattar konsekvenserna av de olika styrningssystemen för social hållbarhet. Denna forskning visar att valet av styrstruktur, från marknadsbaserad, hierarkibaserad, kollaborativ och relationell är beroende dels av kostnaden för att hantera och upprätthålla relationer med de olika aktörerna, dels av de potentiella riskerna som föreligger i en viss situation. Vad som utgör en effektiv styrstruktur för ett multinationellt företag i en viss given kontext avgörs av hur väl strukturen stödjer styrningsmekanismer för att reducera transaktionsrisker som bottnar i ett potentiellt opportunistiskt beteende hos leverantörerna. I denna forskning argumenteras det för att struktur ger en plattform för att tillämpa ett antal styrningsmekanismer. Studien visar att styrning av social hållbarhet omfattar tre typer av mekanismer med olika utgång. En består av köparstyrda styrningsmekanismer som omfattar uppförandekoder, leverantörskontroll och leverantörsutbildning. Den andra består av multi-initiativbaserade styrningsmekanismer av hur det strukturella arbetet för att hantera oväntade problem (t.ex. bygg-, el- och brandsäkerhetsrisker) efterföljs. Det tredje omfattar sektorsövergripande styrningsmekanismer där de multinationella företagen samverkar med lokala icke-statliga organisationer i projekt som syftar till social utveckling (tillgång till rent vatten, hälso- & utbildningsinsatser, etc.) för fabriksarbetarna och det omgivande samhället. Denna avhandling bidrar till Sustainable Supply Chain Management-litteraturen då den utvidgar kunskapen om leverantörsstyrning för social hållbarhet genom en den ger en ökad förståelse för styrningsmekanismer, styrstrukturer och olika aktörers engagemang för social hållbarhet. I takt med att behovet av leverantörsstyrning för social hållbarhet ökar kan denna avhandling hjälpa ansvariga ‘corporate sourcing managers’ att utveckla en fördjupad förståelse för hur leverantörsstyrning kan påverka social hållbarhet.

Who captures the value created in global supply chains? How should gaps in value capture among participants be amended and by whom? Focusing on the global apparel supply chain and employing value creation as a yardstick for evaluation of value capture, the book documents distortions in value distribution among global brands, manufacturers, labor, and consumers. It develops a novel approach for correcting for these distortions by creating a market for social justice that is based on interdependence relationships among the participants.

This handbook is a compilation of comprehensive reference sources that provide state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical and applied research on sustainable fashion supply chain management. It contains three parts, organized under the headings of “Reviews and Discussions,” “Analytical Research,” and “Empirical Research,” featuring peer-reviewed papers contributed by researchers from Asia, Europe, and the US. This book is the first to focus on sustainable supply chain management in the fashion industry and is therefore a pioneering text on this topic. In the fashion industry, disposable fashion under the fast fashion concept has become a trend. In this trend, fashion supply chains must be highly responsive to market changes and able to produce fashion products in very small quantities to satisfy changing consumer needs. As a result, new styles will appear in the market within a very short time and fashion brands such as Zara can reduce the whole process cycle from conceptual design to a final ready-to-sell “well-produced and packaged” product on the retail sales floor within a few weeks. From the supply chain’s perspective, the fast fashion concept helps to match supply and demand and lowers inventory. Moreover, since many fast fashion companies, e.g., Zara, H&M, and Topshop, adopt a local sourcing approach and obtain supply from local manufacturers (to cut lead time), the corresponding carbon footprint is much reduced. Thus, this local sourcing scheme under fast fashion would enhance the level of environmental friendliness compared with the more traditional offshore sourcing. Furthermore, since the fashion supply chain is notorious for generating high volumes of pollutants, involving hazardous materials in the production processes, and producing products by companies with low social responsibility, new management principles and theories, especially those that take into account consumer behaviours and preferences, need to be developed to address many of these issues in order to achieve the goal of sustainable fashion supply chain management. The topics covered include Reverse Logistics of US Carpet Recycling; Green Brand Strategies in the Fashion Industry; Impacts of Social Media on Consumers’ Disposals of Apparel; Fashion Supply Chain Network Competition with Eco-labelling; Reverse Logistics as a Sustainable Supply Chain Practice for the Fashion Industry; Apparel Manufacturers’ Path to World-class Corporate Social Responsibility; Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Slow-Fashion Industry; Mass Market Second-hand Clothing Retail Operations in Hong Kong; Constraints and Drivers of Growth in the Ethical Fashion Sector: The case of France; and Effects of Used Garment Collection Programmes in Fast Fashion Brands.

This edited volume comprises ideas, visions, strategies, and dreams of entrepreneurs, managers, scientists and political experts who share their best practice experience relating to the joint goal of a more sustainable, humanistic, and responsible fashion industry. Readers will find a variety of approaches and strategies that in sum represent a rich pool of insights and cases for anyone interested in the study of new management perspectives and in the systematic advancement of sustainable fashion.In 14 chapters, international authors discuss topics such as Sustainable Business Models, Cradle-to-Cradle, Circular Economy, Human Rights, Ethical Supply Chain Management, Sustainable Fashion Consumption, Certification and Auditing, Traceability, Impact Measurement, and Industry Transformation. Business case studies include H&M, Filippa K, Melawear, Otto, Tauko, and Tchibo. Further brands that are discussed in the book are Prada, Burberry, Hermès, Hugo Boss, and many more. The book demonstrates that sustainable fashion can hardly be realized by just one actor or by using just one business tool or governance instrument. The sustainable transformation of the textile sector requires concerted action of businesses, governments, NGOs, and consumers to clearly demonstrate a coalition for change and a willingness and power to end inhumane and unsustainable business practices in the 21st century. The sum of innovative approaches and solutions presented in this book shows that the momentum for change is strong and that mutual learning, respect and collaboration can lead to interesting and effective new paths of co-creation and shared responsibility in the fashion industry.

This book argues that larger flaws in the global supply chain must first be addressed to change the way business is conducted to prevent factory owners from taking deadly risks to meet clients’ demands in the garment industry in Bangladesh. Using the 2013 Rana Plaza disaster as a departure point, and to prevent such tragedies from occurring in the future, this book presents an interdisciplinary analysis to address the disaster which resulted in a radical change in the functioning of the garment industry. The chapters present innovative ways of thinking about solutions that go beyond third-party monitoring. They open up possibilities for a renewed engagement of international brands and buyers within the garment sector, a focus on direct worker empowerment using technology, the role of community-based movements, developing a model of change through enforceable contracts combined with workers movements, and a more productive and influential role for both factory owners and the government. This book makes key interventions and rethinks the approaches that have been taken until now and proposes suggestions for the way forward. It engages with international brands, the private sector, and civil society to strategize about the future of the industry and for those who depend on it for their livelihood. A much-needed review and evaluation of the many initiatives that have been set up in Bangladesh in the wake of Rana Plaza, this book is a valuable addition to academics in the fields of development studies, gender and women’s studies, human rights, poverty and practice, political science, economics, sociology, anthropology, and South Asian studies.

Stories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include: -Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company – Oregon, USA -Angela Damman Yucatán – Yucatán, Mexico -Tonlé – Phnom Penh, Cambodia -Indigenous Designs – Highlands, Peru -Harris Tweed® – Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UK With a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and Carver offer personal and insightful narratives of companies addressing the challenges facing today's global fashion industry.