Fashion Zeitgeist

Part I, Postfashion -- What fashion strictly divided -- Adorned in Zeitgeist -- High and low: the end of a century of fashion -- Part II, Eight types of fashion -- Lagerfeld for Chanel: the griffe -- Montana, Mugler: myth -- Dolce & Gabbana: deep south -- Comme des garcçons: ex oriente lux -- Yohji Yamamoto: the secret sewn in -- Gaultier: revaluation of all values -- Helmut Lang: fabric, skin and figure -- Martin Margiela: signs of time.

Part I, Postfashion -- What fashion strictly divided -- Adorned in Zeitgeist -- High and low: the end of a century of fashion -- Part II, Eight types of fashion -- Lagerfeld for Chanel: the griffe -- Montana, Mugler: myth -- Dolce & Gabbana: deep south -- Comme des garcçons: ex oriente lux -- Yohji Yamamoto: the secret sewn in -- Gaultier: revaluation of all values -- Helmut Lang: fabric, skin and figure -- Martin Margiela: signs of time.

How does a style become a fashion? Why do trends spread and decline? Introducing Fashion Theory explores these questions and more to help you quickly get up-to-speed with fashion theories, from scarcity to conformity, through clear practical examples and fascinating case studies. This second edition, re-titled from Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry, includes expanded coverage on cultural appropriation, corporate greenwashing, and the criminal world of counterfeit goods. - Illustrated examples, from Apple's post-postmodernist iWatch to Savage X Fenty's body image message on diversity - Covers core fashion theories, from trickle-down to trickle-up, to political dress and conspicuous consumption - Filled with learning activities, key terms, chapter summaries, and discussion questions to inspire and inform

It’s 1999, and in the Turkish half of Cyprus, the ever-enterprising Leggy Starlitz has alighted — pausing on his mission to storm the Third World with the G-7 girls, the cheapest, phoniest all-girl rock group ever to wear Wonderbras and spandex. His market is staring him in the face: millions of teenagers trapped in a world of mullahs and mosques, all ready to blow their pocket change on G-7’s massive merchandising campaign — and to wildly anticipate music the band will never release. Leggy’s brilliant plan means doing business with some of the world’s most dangerous people. Among these thieves, schemers, and killers, he must act quickly and decisively. Y2K is just around the corner — and the only rule to live by is that the whole scheme stops before the year 2000. But Leggy’s G-7 Zeitgeist is in serious jeopardy, for in Istanbul his former partners are getting restless — and the G-7 girls are beginning to die.... From the Paperback edition.

When, how and why do clothes become fashion? Fashion is more than mere clothing. It is a moment of invention, a distillation of desire, a reflection of a zeitgeist. It is also a business relying on an intricate network of manufacture, marketing and retail. Fashion is both medium and message but it does not explain itself. It requires language and images for its global mediation. It develops from the prescience of the designer and is dependent on acceptance by observers and wearers alike. When Clothes Become Fashion explores the structures and strategies which underlie fashion innovation, how fashion is perceived and the point at which clothing is accepted or rejected as fashion. The book provides a clear theoretical framework for understanding the world of fashion - its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities and economic conditions.

Highlighting the skills and considerations needed to manage products, Virginia Grose introduces key processes such as product development, the supply chain and branding to help you quickly get to grips with the business side of fashion. Examining traditional and newer roles within the industry, discussing the roles of buyers, retailers and merchandisers interviews and case studies give insight into the realities of this competitive industry. This second edition has all new case studies, interviews and projects as well as coverage of sustainable practice, the use of social media, the circular economy and slow fashion. There's also more on digital storytelling, online and offline retailing and elements of retail entertainment for customers plus the impact of fast fashion throughout the industry.

Showcasing twenty-five years of iconic art, fashion, and design content from renowned New York–based publication Visionaire. A publishing experiment that began in 1991, Visionaire has taken the shape of everything from a leather-bound portfolio to 12-inch vinyl records to a collection of dolls. With intimate reflections by contributors, a prized collection of nearly 450 images selected from sixty-five issues produced by an astounding cast of artists, photographers, and designers, this book delivers a rich panorama of two decades of media and fashion revolution from the perspective of independent publishing. Original commentary by cofounders Cecilia Dean and James Kaliardos provides unprecedented access to a pivotal New York scene and the creative life behind Visionaire as it shaped the fashion zeitgeist, propelling emerging voices and exceptional content while challenging the limits of print media. This volume is an essential piece of contemporary fashion and media history that traces the shape of things to come. Visionaire contributors include photographers Bruce Weber, Inez & Vinoodh, Mario Sorrenti, Mert and Marcus, Steven Klein, and Steven Meisel; artists Alex Katz, John Baldessari, KAWS, Marina Abramovic, and Yoko Ono; designers Karl Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, and Riccardo Tisci; pop icons Bjork, David Bowie, Kate Moss, Lady Gaga, and Miley Cyrus; and many more. Art and fashion connoisseurs and anyone interested in media, design, and culture will find this landmark volume indispensable.

Over the last century there has been a complete transformation of the fashion system. The unitary top-down fashion cycle has been replaced by the pulsations of multiple and simultaneous styles, while the speed of global production and circulation has become ever faster and more complex. Running in tandem, the development of artificial fibres has revolutionized the composition of clothing, and the increased focus on youth, sexuality, and the body has radically changed its design. From the 1920s flapper dress to debates over the burkini, fashion has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources and illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

Attitudes to fashion have changed radically in the twenty-first century. Dress is increasingly approached as a means of self-expression, rather than as a signifier of status or profession, and designers are increasingly treated as 'artists', as fashion moves towards art and enters the gallery, museum, and retail space. This book is the first to fully explore the causes and implications of this shift, examining the impact of technological innovation, globalization, and the growth of the internet. The End of Fashion focuses on the ways in which our understanding of fashion and the fashion system have transformed as mass mediation and digitization continue to broaden the way that contemporary fashion is perceived and consumed. Exploring everything from the rise of online shopping to the emergence of bloggers as power elites who have revolutionized the terrain of traditional fashion reportage, this volume anatomizes a world in which runway shows now compete with live-streaming, digital fashion films, Instagram, and Pinterest. Bringing together original, cutting-edge contributions from leading international scholars, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and cultural studies, as well as anyone interested in exploring the dramatic shifts that have shaken the fashion world this century – and what they might say about larger changes within an increasingly global and digital society.

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one s ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies."